Crosslab Maki Ueda #3

The final assignment was basically an improvement of assignmet 2, to make a more refined presentation. I decided to make a website for my product, two of the webpages are shown below.



















The concept is still the same as I explained in my earlier post, and is also on the website. A pricelist isn't available yet, because currently I am still talking to the jewellers who will provide my jewellery. How ever, this jewellery is a luxury item and will be more expensive than average jewellery. The prices will depend on the jewellery and scent of your choice. A basic scent, such as the examples in my previous blogpost, will be less expensive than a custom personalized scent.

Crosslab Maki Ueda #2

The second smell-life-technology assignment was about the future.

Create an idea for a project relating to ‘smell – life – technology’. For example you can initiate a venture company that provides a new type of service for smell and taste, open a new type of restaurant or shop, product design, artwork, etc etc…

You’d need money to realize it. Imagine that you have to convince an investor (= the audience) with your presentation. (Let’s vote after the presentations to whom we’d want to invest!) Use your blog site efficiently for your presentattion.

Tip: explain shortly and clearly WHAT it is about, for WHOM it is, WHY you want to do it, HOW it works and HOW you would realize it (technically it doesn’t have to be realistic if it’s explained so)

- time of presentation: 3 to 5 min.
- language: English.
- no laptop open during other’s presentations
- take notes on a sheet of A4 paper during other’s presentations (like the last time)

Smell often is the first response to stimuli, it alerts us to certain dangers like for instance fire and keeps us from eating rotten food. Smell is one of our basic senses, but it’s also at the forefront of neurological research. Scientists are still exploring exactly how smell works, how we pick them up, process them and interpret them as smells. Smell is also, more than any other of our senses, linked to the parts of the brain that process emotion and associative learning. Smell can bring on a flood of memories, it can influence your mood and even effect someone’s performances. The olfactory bulb is part of the limbic system of the brain, also called the emotional brain because it is mainly associated with memory and feeling, and therefore smell can bring up memories and powerful responses almost instantaneously.
The olfactory bulb has access to the amygdala, which processes emotion, and to the hippocampus, which is responsible for associative learning. When you first smell a new scent, you immediately link it to an event, a person, a thing or maybe even a moment. It is your brain that forces a link between smell and memory, and if the smell is there again the link is already made and will bring back a certain memory or mood. Some people may smell lilies for instance, and think of fresh flowers on the table, while others think associate it with a funeral. Therefore it can happen that the smell of lilies agitates you without knowing why. This is part of the reason why not everyone likes the same smells.
Most of the new odors we come across we encounter in our youth, because of that smells can often call up memories from our childhood. There has been research into the effect smell can have on infants in the womb. It has been proved that infants exposed to for instance alcohol, cigarette smoke or garlic later on show a preference for these smells and find them normal or even comforting, while other babies may get upset by these smells.

As I explained, smell is something that instantly connects with emotions and therefore is an ideal way to influence our feelings in a positive way. Everybody has different preferences when it comes to smell and everyone makes different connections between certain smells and memories. What one person finds calming may be confusing to someone else. With this concept, a certain smell can be added to a personal piece of jewellery, so you can always call back that one moment, place or that one person.
People often have images or maybe even movies of certain moments, places or persons that they cherish and use to call up memories of that special something. But because smell connects with our emotions more than any other of our senses, we believe it can be used as a way to complete our memory and feeling. You may use this jewellery to remember your late grandmother or as a way to make you feel at home in unfamiliar places.
This concept has a large target group, as it can be adjusted to your own personal desires. For now this concept will focus on females, because women are known to be more emotional than men. The jewellery will be more expensive than ordinary jewellery, because of the special value scent brings to it. The jewellery is a way to complete a certain memory or feeling and is a luxury item. There will be different pieces of jewellery to choose from, and a variety of basic scents. To personalize your piece of jewelley, smell can be extracted from for instance clothing or perfume. The smell will be held in a small holder inside your jewellery, it holds the scented liquid, but releases its smell.















Basic scent, refreshing and comforting. Reminds you of your perfect summer holiday. You think of the ocean and the beach, the sun on your skin and a soft ocean breeze. Ideal for people who feel slightly depresses by rain and cold, to help them remember sunshine will follow after rain.














Basic scent, relaxing and empowering. Reminds you of fresh baked bread in the morning. The sun through your curtains as you wake up. A scent to help people relax and take a little break in a stressfull environment.















Basic scent, romantic and calming. Reminds you of fresh flowers on the table, perfume and love. It makes you feel really feminine and special. It brightens your day and you feel more confident.

Crosslab Maki Ueda #1

The past 4 weeks our Crosslab teacher has been Maki Ueda, and in her classes we focussed on smell in combination with both life and technology. The first assignment was about exploring existing examples of smell-life-technology.

In my search I discovered Sissel Tolaas, an odor or scent artist. I found her work interesting and inspiring, and wanted to learn more. I found an interview where she explains her vision on the future.



Following Her Nose
An Odor Artist's Vision of a Smelly Future

Odor expert and smell artist Sissel Tolaas straddles the worlds of art, science and commerce. She believes that humans are not reaching their olfactory potential and that we need to get rid of the notions of good and bad smells.

Sissel Tolaas is difficult to label. She's an artist, chemist, odor theorist and smell missionary. Now she can add "magazine curator" to her CV. The current issue of MONO.KULTUR, an arts quarterly published in Berlin, features 12 of the scents she has produced in her Berlin lab. All you need to do is scratch and sniff.


The Scandinavian smell expert, who has degrees in chemistry, art and language, is on something of a mission to change the way we think about our olfactory capabilities. She argues that an appreciation of our sense of smell can allow us to live our lives to their full potential. "We can be nothing without the nose," she told SPIEGEL ONLINE in an interview. "The moment we stop breathing we are dead. With every breath we take in thousands of molecules."

For 20 years, the Norwegian-born Tolaas has been engaged in researching odors, collecting an archive of some 6,700 smells in her West Berlin apartment and training her nose to not just detect scents but to remove her emotional baggage about notions of odors being good or bad. Her interdisciplinary research and conceptual approach has led her to put on art installations, work with universities on research projects and put her knowledge to commercial use.

Tolaas argues that our sense of smell is "completely undervalued" compared to other senses. We rarely understand the information that comes through our noses, she says, and we lack the language to describe what we experience. Yet the very way we relate to our surroundings and each other can be primarily through smell. "Tolerance doesn't start with looking and hearing, with skin color or religion but with the smell, the nose," she argues.

'Smell Occurs in an Emotional Context'

Tolaas is working with young people to redress the sorry state of our smell consciousness. For seven years she has been "investing in the future" by tackling children's preconceived ideas of good and bad smells. "I take kids to hardcore neighborhoods where it's very pungent and the kids freak out," she explains enthusiastically. She then reproduces the smells in her lab and reexposes the children to them. On day one they are disgusted but slowly they get used to the whiff. By day five, they have learned to like the once-strange odor.

"We are not born to like and dislike things," she explains. "Every smell occurs in an emotional context and you have to have an experience to react to the smell."

There is, however, one smell she admits that is universally regarded as bad: the smell of death. But even that didn't turn off Tolaas, who spent years training herself to be neutral about smells -- her personal dislike had been for sour milk -- and not to react to them emotionally. The German Museum of Military History in Dresden set her the task of recreating the stench of the battlefield and she rose to the challenge. "They wanted the smell of dead bodies and blood and I tried with the tools I have, although I thought to myself: How far do I go, where do I stop?" When she presented the museum with her scent, however, they quickly went off the idea.

Though she doesn't have a gallery or consider herself part of the art world, Tolaas has made a name for herself as an artist. "I am interested in action and reaction, in the process of being alive and I needed to get out of the lab situation," she explains. She chose art as a way to communicate her ideas, because that was the most likely world to accept her "crazy project."

In 2004, for example, Tolaas presented an art project on her adopted city of Berlin, where she has lived since 1987. She went to four very different districts -- Reinickendorf, Neukölln, Charlottenburg and Mitte -- and walked around, identifying the neighborhoods with her "professional nose." She then reproduced the smells in her lab and returned to the areas to confront the local people with the odors and asked them to speak about them. "They just let loose like children, speaking about the smells and telling me stories. It went beyond what any kind of visual material or sound could have allowed." These reactions then became part of an installation which was shown during the third Berlin Biennale art exhibition.

Personal Smells Like Finger Prints

Tolaas's success in the field of art in turn prompted the commercial world to come knocking on her door. The International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF) company now sponsors her and has provided her with equipment and 2,000 molecules to work with in her lab. "This for me is heaven," she says. "It changed my life." Yet Tolaas doesn't produce perfumes. "I have nothing against perfumery or deodorization, but we have to know what we are covering up before we deodorize it." Everyone has a unique smell she says, like a finger print, and that smell interacts with any perfume that is applied.

Tolaas has also worked with academia. She exhibited a show on the smell of fear at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in 2006 and has worked with a Harvard University research team on assessing sources of pollution in Mexico City. She developed methods to engage with people in the city and their awareness of the causes of pollution. "If you get the message through your nose, you really get the message," she argues.


At the moment she is working with sports giant Adidas on developing the company's corporate identity and has projects in the works with the American cities of San Francisco and Kansas City. "I am really busy," she says with relish.

Tolaas is positively evangelical in her striving to improve our olfactory skills. "There is so much out there that we don't know about the nose. What would happen if we started to train the nose for other purposes than just breathing in and out?"

Yet her work is almost always playful and full of humor. "It's all about getting humanity to become kids again," Tolaas says. "As far as the nose is concerned, we are all babies, we haven't got a clue. I give you the playground and let you run loose."

Tolaas has graduate degrees in chemistry, art and language, plus an undergraduate degree in math, began working with smell after chemicals she was using for an art project blew up in a particularly stinky way. "I realized we have only two words to communicate about smells: bad or good," she says. "I thought, something is wrong with that."

Tolaas traveled the world collecting odors, building a library of 6,763 scents, including dirt, toys, and rotten bananas. Ultimately, her reputation led her to the perfume industry. Tolaas' collaboration with IFF allows her to concentrate on scent 24/7. In return, the company gets her maverick sensibility, which may lead it to untapped markets. Tolaas has also worked with companies like Ikea and Volvo to add a scent to their brands. This could mean that in the future we'll know a company not just by its logo or jingle, but also by its smell.

For her MIT show, Tolaas synthetically rendered each man's unique scent. Then, using IFF's industrial micro encapsulation process (today's answer to scratch-and-sniff), she created a special paint. When visitors touched the exhibit walls, microscopic capsules broke, releasing scents into the air. S&M Guy and Guy No. 3 were derived from the sweat of two of the nine men who were the subject of Tolaas' 2006 exhibit the FEAR of Smell — the Smell of FEAR at MIT's List Visual Arts Center. The men suffer from acute, chronic fear. To capture the smell of their sweat, Tolaas, the world's preeminent odor artist, designed a small device that subjects placed in their armpits when they were likely to be afraid. The S&M guy, for instance, collected his perspiration when he visited sex clubs. He and the other men mailed their samples to Tolaas' lab, which is funded by International Flavors and Fragrances, a $4 billion company that makes perfumes for Prada and Calvin Klein.

Poster Software

Technology in fashion

Door de toenemende wereldbevolking en mechanisatie neemt de vervuiling op de aarde steeds verder toe. Wetenschappers proberen dit op heel veel manieren duidelijk te maken, maar tot nu toe is dit absoluut de mooiste manier. CO2 sensoren geven een signaal door aan de LED lampjes die in een borduursel op een jurk zijn verwerkt en door een lichtpatroon wordt de hoeveelheid vervuiling weergegeven. Wie had ooit gedacht dat vervuiling zo mooi kon zijn..




CO2 Pollution Dress, samenwerking tussen diffus.dk, Alexandra Institute, The Danish Design School en Forster Rohner


OLED Dress, ontworpen door Gareth Pugh en gemaakt door PolyPhotonix

Crosslab Melissa Coleman: Customizen

Tijdens de Crosslab les van woensdag 17 maart hebben we lichtjes geïntegreerd in een kledingstuk. Melissa leverde de benodigdheden, we hoefden alleen een kledingstuk mee te nemen.

Alles wat je nodig had

Bezig met het bevestigen van de lampjes in mijn t-shirt

Dit was uiteindelijk de bedoeling!

Crosslab door Melissa Coleman: Concept

Groep:
Cherida v/d Ende, Veerle Evens en Lotte Groeneveld

Concept:
Door middel van een chip die geïntegreerd wordt in een persoonlijk sieraad wordt de drager van het sieraad op de hoogte gebracht van een naderende storm, brand, of ander denkbaar gevaar. Door middel van bijvoorbeeld geur, trillingen of geluid kan het sieraad ook een kalmerende werking hebben zodat de drager niet in paniek raakt over het naderende gevaar.

Conceptvorming:
Bij de Crosslab lessen van Melissa Coleman kijken we naar de mogelijkheden die er zijn in het combineren van technologie en kleding. Hierbij moet een eigen concept verzonnen worden. We hebben ervoor gekozen om binnen ons concept in te gaan op de toenemende natuurrampen, hevige weersomstandigheden en andere gevaren.
De laatste tijd komen natuurrampen vaker voor, onder andere door de klimaatveranderingen. Aardbevingen, tsunami’s, etcetera hebben desastreuze gevolgen, vaak zorgen ze voor veel schade en veel doden. Er wordt veel onderzoek gedaan naar de mogelijkheden om de schade van dit soort rampen te beperken, mogelijke slachtoffers van te voren te waarschuwen en zo het aantal doden en gewonden terug te dringen.
Uit verschillende onderzoeken is gebleken dat mensen, net als dieren, van nature gevaar aan kunnen voelen. Dit is een soort oerinstinct wat ook bij moeders vaak voorkomt. Toch worden veel mensen vaak verrast door plotseling gevaar en weten dan niet hoe ze moeten reageren. Door ons concept willen we aan de alertheid bijdragen en mensen ook enigszins leiden in hun reactie. Het is namelijk belangrijk dat mensen rustig blijven als er gevaar dreigt. Veel mensen raken echter in paniek en handelen instinctief, zo vallen er vaak onnodig nog meer slachtoffers.
De drager zal dus geen hinder of last ondervinden, omdat het concept verwerkt is in alledaagse accessoires. Het beïnvloed de drager dus pas als er iets gebeurd waar de drager alert op gemaakt moet worden, en op dat moment heeft het een positieve invloed op de drager. Uiteindelijk zal het voor de drager een prettige ervaring zijn, doordat hij of zij eraan wordt herinnerd dat kalmte geboden is. Zo kan veel onnodige stress weggenomen worden en kunnen ongelukken en eventuele slachtoffers door onoplettentheid of irrationeel handelen voorkomen worden.

Verwezenlijking:
De chip moet geïntegreerd worden in iets wat mensen altijd bij zich kunnen dragen. Vanuit dit oogpunt is kleding logischer wijze dus geen optie, mensen dragen niet dagelijks hetzelfde en het is onmogelijk de chip in alle kledingstukken te integreren. In plaats daarvan zal dus gebruik gemaakt worden van een persoonlijk sieraad of accessoire. Men kan zo zelf kiezen voor een ring, armband, medaillon of bijvoorbeeld zelfs een sleutelhanger. Via weerstations en dergelijke zullen berichten over naderende stormen etcetera worden opgevangen en doorgezonden naar de dragers van de sieraden. De drager wordt dan op de hoogte gebracht van het naderende gevaar en wordt er door middel van trillingen, geluiden of geur op gewezen dat het noodzakelijk is kalm te blijven.
Voordelen van een accessoire zijn dus dat ze persoonlijk zijn en aangepast kunnen worden aan ieders smaak en wensen. Ook zijn het dingen die mensen altijd bij zich kunnen dragen. Op die manier zal dit dus beter werken dan waarschuwingen via televisie of radio, omdat veel mensen deze berichten missen. Verder kunnen waarschuwingen en oplossingen in dit concept verenigd worden, doordat de drager direct beschermd wordt tegen irrationeel handelen.
Een dergelijk idee bestaat al in de vorm van emotie sieraden. Zo zijn er bijvoorbeeld ringen die de emotie van de drager verbeelden. Deze ringen waren erg populair in de jaren '70 en de trend herhaalt zich geregeld. De steen in de ring bestaat eigenlijk uit glas en thermotropic liquid crystals die reageren op temperatuursveranderingen. Zo geven de ringen dus geen accurate weergave van je emotie, maar gaan af op de fysieke uitingen ervan. Dit idee zal in de toekomst dus uitgebreid worden naar sieraden of accessoires die werkelijk een functie hebben en die ook werken zoals ze zeggen of behoren te doen.